Restaurant Review: Ella’s American Bistro

Restaurant: Ella’s American Bistro
Address: 214 Sugartown Rd. Wayne Pa 19087
Rating: ★★★★ out of 5 stars
Style: Upscale Bistro
Food: American / French
Atmosphere: Beautiful
Parking: Lot
Service: Refined
Price Range: $10 - $30 per person
Unique Feature: The bar is perfect for large groups and the restaurant can seat nearly 150. And the cheddar butter biscuts are to die for!

As we set out upon a new year, it seems fitting to welcome a new restaurant to the area. Ella’s American Bistro opened in Wayne at Devon Square. With it, longtime residents and business owners Cortright and Janice Wetherill brought a wealth of history, a feeling of refinement, a little bit of lavish, and a taste of home into the community.

The family ties at Ella’s begin with its namesake, the Wetherill matriarch Ella, and continue through the décor; a long history of winning horses from the Happy Hills Farm, their jockeys, purses and shoes adorn the walls.

The equestrian theme is prominent but nicely portrayed, allowing for a bold, earthy palate of colors are brought to the forefront; beige and taupe walls are complemented by elegant, ivory colored crown molding. Old distressed wood plays perfectly with deep greens in solids, stripes and patterns. Grandiose floral arrangements give a feeling of luxury only an eight-foot tall, feathered centerpiece could give, and its all set off by cool black lacquer found sparely through the dining room.

There’s a natural beauty found at Ella’s. It’s not extravagant, or pretentious, but genuinely welcoming. And the feeling translates to the staff, the wine list and the menu.

The wine program at Ella’s covers reds, whites and sparkling by the glass or bottle, for almost every expense account, ranging from affordable, to celebratory, to the “I think I drive the same car as a music mogul because I’m feeling richer affect” with a $450 bottle of “Cristal.”

But don’t let the formidable wine list scare you. There are a select number of beers, and even $2 bottomless sodas offered.

The lunch menu is also very approachable and easily affordable at less the $15 per person, if you’re savvy. In the kitchen, Executive Chef Matt Schuler prepares generally healthy dishes with a heavy focus on organic, locally grown ingredients.

On my visit to Ella’s, my guest and I ordered a bottle of sparkling water, a cup of the asparagus soup (the day’s special), a mixed organic green salad, a tarragon chicken sandwich and a Cuban sandwich, both served with chips, an order of fries, fried pickles and two cups of coffee; grand total $54.

The mixed organic salad was a deliciously fresh combination of green and purple leaves decorated with bright orange carrot and tossed in a delightful poppy seed dressing.

The aroma of the asparagus led the charge in this handsomely plated cup of soup. It had a good texture without being overly creamy. The chef added small spears of asparagus to the broth, but left the seasoning up to the customer.

Perfect white chunks of tarragon-seasoned chicken served on hearty bread were accompanied by a crispy order of chips. The sandwich was wonderful, but its healthy appeal was nearly outshone by the serving of French fries that I had requested. The 'McDonalds-worthy' shoestring fries arrived in a miniature fry basket, and tasted even better than they looked.

The vessel was used again for the fried pickles we had ordered. Crispy and delicious, with a heavy breading and a side of spicy remolade, the fried pickles are a resolution buster. The chef seemed to have removed the seeds of the pickles, prompting my guest and I to wonder about the deep fried pickle skins. But after a bite, we were sold and decided that removing the seeds also removed the possibility of boiling grease popping into our faces. Thanks Chef, for a nice touch!

The Cubano sandwich was deliciously crispy. A swipe of whole grain mustard really set off the flavors of the ham, pork and melted cheese. Served with a fresh, creamy ramekin of coleslaw and a handful of delicate sweet potato chips, the Cubano was a hit.

With our dishes cleared and our leftovers packed in a compostable container, my friend and I enjoyed a cup of coffee with a delightful little cow for the creamer.  

It’s the little things that make Ella’s the kind of place you’d want to return to; not just the place that we tried that one time. It’s a neighborhood place, with a wonderful feel and the perfect addition to the area.

According to management at Ella’s, their doors will be open this Sunday for their first brunch service from 11am – 2pm. In addition to the lunch menu that will be offered, the Chef will be preparing breakfast specials like eggs Benedict, southern fried chicken and waffles, and a chef’s omelet, in addition to some other items.

Also, be sure to ask for their soon-to-be-signature BLT Bloody Mary, an off-menu choice for this week that includes bacon flavored vodka, a romaine lettuce spear, a blue cheese and bacon stuffed olive and a grape tomato. 

Ella's American Bistro Website